Togo: A Tasty Guide to Local Cuisine
Togo may be small, but its culinary scene is anything but. The country’s food reflects its diverse culture, with flavors influenced by West Africa, France, and even Germany. If you’re into trying new foods and discovering street eats, Togo is a place to explore.
What to Expect When Eating in Togo
Togo’s cuisine uses plenty of local ingredients: maize, millet, cassava, yams, and peanuts, to name a few. Many dishes are stews served with some kind of starch like fufu, a soft dough made from cassava or yams. The portions are hearty, the flavors rich, and you’ll find a lot of heat from local peppers. You can expect affordable, simple meals in local restaurants or markets, but you can also seek out fine dining if you’re looking for a gourmet twist.
Must-Try Dishes
Now, let’s get to the good stuff: what you should eat. Togo offers a variety of traditional foods, many of which you can sample at street markets or local eateries. Here are a few dishes you shouldn’t miss:
1. Fufu
Fufu is a staple in Togo and many West African countries. It’s made from boiled yams, cassava, or plantains, mashed into a smooth dough. You don’t eat fufu with cutlery; instead, you pinch off a piece of it, roll it in your hands, and dip it into a stew or soup. It pairs best with spicy fish or meat dishes.
2. Akume and Ablo
Akume is another Togolese staple. It’s made from maize flour and has a starchy, polenta-like texture. Ablo, made from rice and corn, is similar but a little sweeter and fluffier. Both are often served as side dishes alongside hearty stews or sauces made with meats or vegetables. Try them with sauce d’arachide, a delicious peanut sauce.
3. Pâte Noir (Togo’s Take on Polenta)
Pâte Noir, made from dark cornmeal, is a starchy dish eaten throughout Togo. It’s versatile and usually paired with a sauce made from greens or meat. It doesn’t have much flavor on its own, but when combined with sauce tomate (a tomato-based salsa) or a hot pepper sauce, it becomes incredibly good.
4. Adémè
Adémè is a leafy spinach-like green cooked into a soup and typically served with fufu or akume. It’s flavored with chilies and sometimes smoked fish, giving it an earthy, spicy, and slightly sour taste. This is a must if you want to eat like a local.
5. Gboma Dessi
This is a Togolese spinach stew, often paired with meat or fish. The stew is rich and delicious, thanks to ingredients like palm oil, onions, and tomatoes. The flavors are deep and warm—the kind that makes you feel right at home.
6. Wagassi
Wagassi is the Togolese version of cow’s milk cheese, originally from Northern Togo. Made by Fulani herders, it has a firm texture and is often deep-fried before serving. You’ll often see it served with tomato sauce or beans. Wagassi is an easy and cheap street snack that packs a lot of flavor.
7. Djenkoumé
Djenkoumé, made from coarse cornmeal cooked with palm oil and tomatoes, is a dense, savory dish. You’ll typically find it served with chicken or fish. While it might look similar to fufu or Akume, its taste is much richer because of the palm oil cooked into it.
Togolese Street Food
Togo has some of the best street foods in West Africa. The bustling markets offer food that’s perfect for trying a little of everything. Here are some of the most popular street food options you should sample:
1. Brochettes (Skewered Meats)
Grilled meat on a stick is one of the simplest, but most delicious, street foods in Togo. Whether it’s beef, chicken, or goat, these skewers are grilled over hot coals and seasoned with local spices. They’re cheap, filling, and packed with smoky flavor. You’ll find them at nearly every market or roadside stall.
2. Omelettes
Omelettes are super popular, especially at breakfast stands in Lomé, Togo’s capital. Packed with tomatoes, onions, and fresh peppers, you can get them wrapped in fresh baguettes or served with boiled plantains on the side. Togo’s French influence shines through here.
3. Koklo Meme (Grilled Chicken)
Nothing beats a well-grilled chicken. Koklo Meme is often served as street food, marinated with local spices and grilled until crispy. It’s tender, smoky, and usually comes with a side of fried potatoes or rice if you’re lucky.
4. Akpan (Fermented Corn Dough)
Akpan is a fermented corn dough often sold in little plastic bags. It’s refreshing and slightly sour, eaten cold, and often turned into a drink by mixing it with some sugar and water or milk. It’s a quick, cheap snack when you need something cool during a hot day.
5. Yovo Doko (Sweet Fried Dough)
Togo’s take on donuts, Yovo Doko are deliciously crispy and sweet balls of dough, deep-fried to a golden brown. These make for a handy snack or dessert. You can find them in street markets or from vendors wandering the streets.
Regional Specialties
The country may be tiny, but regional culinary differences still exist. Venture to different parts of Togo to taste unique flavors:
1. Northern Togo: Millet & Sorghum Dishes
Head to the north of Togo, and you’ll notice more dishes made from millet and sorghum. These grains are staples in this part of the country. Don’t miss Tchakpalo, a fermented millet-based drink that’s a local favorite.
2. Southern Togo: Seafood Dishes
The southern coastline brings more access to fish and seafood. Lomé is full of fresh grilled fish, shrimp, or crab dishes served right off the boat. Try grilled tilapia with lime and hot pepper sauce for something local yet simple.
3. Kpalimé: A Cocoa Heaven
Kpalimé is Togo’s cocoa-producing region, so there’s no better place to indulge in chocolate treats. Seek out local bakeries for cakes and pastries made from organic Togolese chocolate—it’s just as good as what you’d find in Europe.
Where to Eat in Togo
There are different ways to eat your way through Togo. From markets to fancy dining, here’s where to go depending on your mood and budget:
1. Local Markets and Street Stalls
If you’re after low-cost, high-flavor food, you’ll want to head to the markets. Lomé’s Grand Marché and Dekon are great places to sample cheap, freshly made local dishes. Street stalls are spread everywhere, usually offering more variety than restaurants at a lower price. You can also try a drink from a vendor selling bissap, a cold, sweet drink made from hibiscus flowers.
2. Casual Local Restaurants (Maquis)
For a sit-down meal that’s still affordable, try a maquis. These local, informal restaurants serve home-cooked traditional meals. Look for dishes like grilled fish with beans or rice with a hearty vegetable stew.
3. Higher-End Dining: Lomé’s Fine Restaurants
Lomé has a growing number of fine-dining spots that offer a more upscale version of local food. Try eating at La Route des Vins or Coco Beach for a mix of local ingredients with European techniques. These places can be pricy compared to the street, but the quality is excellent.
Final Thoughts on Eating in Togo
Eating in Togo is an adventure. The food is rich, filling, and steeped in local tradition. Whether you’re munching on brochettes by a market stall or savoring a French-inspired omelet, your taste buds are in for a treat. Explore the local markets for the best foods at low prices, but don’t hesitate to splurge on finer dining while in Lomé.
Food is everywhere here, and it’s waiting for you to dive in!
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