Turkmenistan is one of the least visited countries in the world. It’s known for its strict rules, golden statues of former leaders, and unusual laws. But don’t let that scare you off. Traveling here can be rewarding if you prepare in advance and respect local customs.
Getting a Visa
To visit Turkmenistan, you’ll need a visa. Most travelers get a tourist visa, but it’s difficult. You’ll need an official letter of invitation from a licensed tour operator. This means you’ll usually have to book a guided tour.
If you’re only passing through, a transit visa is easier to get. But it’s valid for 3-7 days, so your time in the country will be limited.
Transportation
Air Travel
Turkmenistan Airlines is the country’s national carrier. They fly from cities like Istanbul, Dubai, and Moscow. If you’re flying within Turkmenistan, domestic flights are your best value. They’re very cheap and save you time compared to overland travel.
Trains
The train network in Turkmenistan is basic but functional. The trains are slow but affordable. The major routes run from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi and from Ashgabat to Mary. Most journeys take a long time, and don’t expect luxury.
Buses and Shared Taxis
Buses exist but aren’t very reliable outside the capital, Ashgabat. Shared taxis are a better option. They run between major cities and are fairly cheap. Always agree on the price before you leave to avoid surprises.
Driving
Driving in Turkmenistan isn’t recommended unless you’re experienced at dodging potholes and following unclear road markings. Many roads are in poor condition, especially outside the bigger cities. Gas is cheap, but be ready for checkpoints along the way.
Money and Costs
Currency
The local currency is the Turkmen manat (TMT). There aren’t many ATMs, and international credit cards are barely accepted. Bring enough cash for your trip in US dollars or euros, and exchange it at official exchange offices.
Costs
Overall, Turkmenistan is not a cheap country to visit because of the restrictions on independent travel. However, food and local transport are affordable once you’re there. Hotels and guided tours are usually the biggest expenses.
Safety Tips
Turkmenistan is generally safe. Petty crime is low, and violent crime is rare. Most police and military personnel will leave you alone, but you may experience occasional checks. Always carry your passport with you and avoid taking photos of government buildings or soldiers.
Photography Restrictions
Turkmenistan is very strict about photography. You can take photos in tourist areas, but be careful about taking pictures of government buildings, infrastructure, and the military. It’s best to ask for permission to avoid problems.
Health Tips
Tap water isn’t safe to drink, so always stick to bottled water. Healthcare in the country is basic, so bring any prescription medications from home. Hospitals aren’t equipped to handle serious emergencies, so double-check your travel insurance coverage before your trip.
Cultural Customs
Dress Code
Tasteful, modest clothing is a good idea. Men should avoid shorts in public, especially in more conservative areas. Women should cover their shoulders and knees. In tourist areas, the dress code may be more relaxed, but it’s always respectful to follow local norms.
Greeting and Hospitality
Turkmen people are friendly but also traditional. Handshakes are common between men, but men should wait for a woman to offer her hand first. You may be invited into someone’s home for a meal or tea. If so, it’s polite to bring a small gift or flowers for the host.
Language
The official language is Turkmen, but Russian is widely spoken, especially in the capital. English isn’t common, so learning a few basic Turkmen or Russian phrases will go a long way. Simple greetings and thank-yous will earn you plenty of respect from the locals.
Basic Turkmen Phrases
- Salam (Hello)
- Sag boluň (Thank you)
- Hawa (Yes)
- Ýok (No)
What to Avoid
Talking Politics
It’s best to avoid political discussions in Turkmenistan. Criticism of the government or leadership, especially past leaders like Saparmurat Niyazov (aka Turkmenbashi), is a sensitive topic. Locals rarely talk about politics, and you shouldn’t either if you want to stay out of trouble.
Don’t Travel Off the Beaten Track
Independent travel is heavily restricted in Turkmenistan. Outside of a guided tour, you may not be allowed to visit certain areas. Stick to well-known sites and destinations to avoid hassle with authorities.
Stay Out of the Border Areas
The border regions near Afghanistan, Iran, and Uzbekistan are sensitive places. Special permits are required to visit these regions. For your safety, it’s best to avoid these areas unless you have the necessary documentation.
Top Attractions
The Darvaza Gas Crater
Also known as the “Door to Hell,” this giant burning crater has been on fire for decades. It’s one of the country’s most famous sights. Located in the middle of the Karakum Desert, many travelers camp near the crater for a unique overnight experience.
Ashgabat
The capital is full of grandiose, marble-covered buildings. Visit the National Museum of Turkmenistan, the Neutrality Monument, and look out for the many statues of Turkmenbashi. Ashgabat is also a good base for exploring the ruins of Nisa, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Merv
If you’re interested in history, the ancient city of Merv is a must-see. It was one of the major cities of the ancient world and an important stop on the Silk Road. The ruins here date back thousands of years and offer a glimpse into Turkmenistan’s rich history.
Food and Drink
What to Eat
The cuisine in Turkmenistan is a mix of Central Asian flavors with Russian influences. Expect plenty of meat and rice dishes. The national dish is “plov,” a hearty meal of rice, lamb, and vegetables. Manti (dumplings) and kebabs are also popular.
Drinks
Tea is the drink of choice in Turkmenistan, and you’ll likely be offered it everywhere you go. Alcohol is available but don’t expect heavy nightlife outside of Ashgabat. In the capital, you’ll find a few bars and restaurants that serve vodka and beer.
How to Save Money
Travel in the Off-Season
The best time to visit Turkmenistan is in spring and autumn when the weather is cooler. If you travel outside these months, tours, and accommodations might be cheaper as long as you’re okay with intense heat or cold.
Use Public Transport
While it may be slow, trains and shared taxis will save you a decent amount of money on getting around. Avoid private taxis as they are much more expensive.
Stay in Local Guesthouses
Instead of expensive hotels, look for guesthouses run by locals. These are often more affordable, and you’ll get a more authentic experience staying with a local family.
Final Thoughts
Turkmenistan is a unique place to visit, but it isn’t for everyone. You’ll face bureaucratic red tape, and independent travel is tricky. But if you’re up for the adventure, you’ll be rewarded with surreal landscapes, historical ruins, and fascinating cultural insights.
Get prepared, be patient with the system, and respect the local customs. Your trip will be one to remember!
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